Starling Bistro: A Q&A with Head Chef Nick Beardshaw

When Head Chef Nick Beardshaw chose our Precision glass as the table wine glass at his Esher spot, Starling Bistro, we knew we had to find out more. So we sat down for a quick Q&A, because if anyone’s going to put our machine-made stemware through its paces, it’s the man behind one of Surrey’s most exciting new openings.

 

Q - We're so thrilled to have the opportunity to sit down with you, Nick, and ask some burning questions. Let's start with your journey - can you share a bit about how you got to where you are today and what's led you to opening Starling Bistro?

A - Like many in hospitality, my journey started in my local village pub sweeping the car park, then moving onto washing the dishes, before doing the odd starter and eventually to actually cooking the food! I then went to the best restaurant in the area which was The Castle in Taunton under Richard Guest, before moving to Cambridge where I worked for Daniel Clifford, then finally, the longest part of my career, I worked for Tom Kerridge for 13 years. I’d always said I wanted to open my own restaurant, so I discussed it with Tom, who told me to go for it, and the rest is history . It was the experience I gained and my achievements while working for Tom that gave me the skills to start my own restaurant.

Q - Where do you find inspiration for your dishes? Has your upbringing or your experience at Kerridge's or Midsummer House influenced the way you create them?

A  - it’s definitely a mix of all the above. It all starts with ingredients and what I really like to eat, but also my style has been influenced by everybody that I’ve worked for. Tom is definitely the biggest influence and and you can see that in my style at present, but as time rolls on, I’m sure my style will evolve to be more of my own.

Nick Beardshaw with the Precision Universal Glass

Q - Can you tell us a bit about your experience on the Great British Menu, any highlights? What lessons did you take from it that you now apply in your restaurant?

A - I absolutely loved my time on Great British Menu. I love the whole process of developing the dishes, and being able to do whatever you want - it’s so creatively freeing. For the last two series, I’ve actually been working as a chef mentor. I help around half the chefs in the early stages of development of their dishes, advising them on the visual storytelling, and how to achieve that practically. 

Q- As a chef, you must have an incredibly busy schedule. What does a typical day look like for you? Is there anything unique which you do to get you ready for service?

A - We’re a very young business, which means we are incredibly busy. I’m here every day (we are open Wednesday to Sunday) and from 8 o’clock I am literally just doing mise en place until the minute Service starts at 12:00. I wouldn’t say anything unique, just lots of coffee which I think is pretty standard for most head chefs!

Q - How important is the produce you use in your cooking? Where do you source your ingredients, and how do you discover exciting new ones for your recipes?

A - Produce is probably the single most important thing in what we do. We have long-standing relationships with suppliers that go back over 10 years for most of them, which means that most of the hard work with the sourcing is done by them. If we want something new on our menu we generally just ask suppliers what is coming into season what’s going to be good for the next few months, and we’ll use that as a starting point for a dish. 

Q - Why Esher rather than opting for a spot in London? Do you think the hospitality scene in London is over-saturated? What's your top choice for dining in London?

A - We moved to Esher in January 2023 because it was the midpoint between my commute at the time to central London and and my wife Rebecca’s parents who are very involved with our children. I was looking all around the area for a potential restaurant and this site came up, which was a former Costa. I came and had a look, then brought Warren Geraghty and Tom Kerridge for a second opinion. And here we are today! 

I think that with the pandemic the trade changed, certainly in the city, the Monday and Friday lunchtime trade just disappeared, because people were working from home. That’s something we perhaps benefit from in the suburbs. Friday lunches are really happening here! 

My favourite restaurant in London at the moment is Dorian. I just love the vibe and I think in general people don’t want these stuffy environments anymore. I think having the highest level of food in an environment where you can just relax and be yourself is, for me, what’s desirable right now.

Q- Is there anyone in the industry right now who's really inspiring you? Maybe a particular chef or movement?

A - I think just the general move towards informality at the highest end. I think we’re seeing the restaurants which just do tasting menus struggle a bit because people don’t want to be interrupted 100 times during their dinner while they listen to the explanation of what they’re about to eat and how they should eat it. There’s no reason why the highest level of food and cooking can’t be in less formal environment.

Q - What is it about our universal wine glasses that are a must-have for your tables?

A - When you pick these glasses up, you just know you are somewhere that knows what they’re doing. They elevate the house wine and keep the fine wine guys happy too! They are also incredibly “restaurant-proof” with a balance of durability and elegance that fits our space perfectly.

Q - The interior design of your restaurant is absolutely stunning and creates such a memorable atmosphere for your guests. Who was behind the design, and which artist's work is featured on your walls? We love it!

A - We brought Eve Cullen-Cornes onto the team as our designer and she worked closely with Rebecca to create a scheme which felt elegant but relaxed. They took inspiration from classic French bistros but also the English Art Deco movement. The pieces of art on our walls are mainly things we’ve pillaged from our own home! However we did commission the artist Victoria Trinder to paint the 4 large panels - a bit like a mural - with her almost magical interpretation of a Starling murmuration. There’s also another special piece which was given to us by the amazing artist Kate Boxer, and it’s this beautifully striking and slightly louche image of Daphne Du Maurier. The colours echo the interiors perfectly, and while she’s the peak of elegance, she also has this irreverence, which is just perfect. 

Q - The Richard Brendon ethos is Finer Dining, Every Day — what does that mean to you in the context of Starling Bistro's philosophy and guest experience?

A - We’re always on the lookout for better ingredients better glassware better tableware etc, while keeping the whole feeling relaxed and somewhere you’d want to come back to, if not every day, then certainly fairly regularly! So it is very much in line with the experience we are trying to create. 

Q - When you're off-duty and enjoying a bit of downtime, cooking or making your favourite dish or drink, is there a song or artist you always play to set the mood?

A - Being totally honest, we’ve got two girls who are six and three. My downtime is entirely spent with them, so while I’m cooking, there’s probably Bluey or something from Disney+ on in the background. If I’m really lucky, I might get away with having Classic FM At The Movies  on! 

Q - Finally, we just have to ask, though you probably don't often have much time for hosting, when you do, what's your number one tip for the perfect dinner party? What makes it a memorable evening in your eyes?

A - make it as easy as possible for yourself on the night. You’re not going to want to be doing anything when people arrive. Whatever you can do in advance, do it! Go for something like beef Wellington where you’ve done all the work in advance and you just bang it in the oven on the night, sauce that you can reheat, sides that you either just pop in the oven or re-heat. It’s actually the same way we work as professional chefs, doing mise en place so the service goes as smoothly as possible, or in this case when you have people round for dinner. We also always have a bottle of pre-mixed martini in the freezer to get the party started.